London Fashion Week – Telegraph.co.uk


The stories you might have
missed, by the Telegraph fashion team on the ground 

1. The best thing about LFW? The decorating tips, of course 

It’s not just about the clothes. LFW offered the following
(admittedly niche) apercus on decorating car parks, courtesy of Alex
Eagle, the woman responsible for turning Soho’s NCP into fashion HQ:
“Touches of fun colour and texture contrast against the
industrial and the rough. The grungy loft look is over – think marble,
sheepskin and major 20th century furniture.” We gleaned more tips
when gilding the US Ambassador to London’s residence on Friday for the
J Crew/Vogue party: Always read the label. The green chinoiserie paper
in the drawing room at the American Residence, it’s said, once derived
its hypnotic green hue from arsenic. Beautiful but deadly. Lisa Armstrong 


Ellie Goulding at the J.Crew/ Vogue party

Ellie Goulding at the J.Crew/ Vogue party

Credit:
REX

2. Out with the old, in with the new

Fashion week would be a sad disappointment if we couldn’t proclaim
trends we loved six months ago to be irrevocably over. So here goes:
backpacks are the new mini-bags; sleeves (trumpet, tulip,
leg-o’-mutton and trombone shapes, anything really, so long as they’re
flamboyantly impractical. Just channel Marie Antoinette) are the new
flares; yellow is the new orange; minimalism is in intensive care; and
ruffles are all over the damn place. You’ll adore them by spring. LA


Marques'Almeida went big for ruffles

Marques’Almeida went big for ruffles

Credit:
ISIDORE MONTAG

3. Forget quinoa – fashion week food has gone lo-fi  

In a reassuring backlash to the earnest #eatclean movement (we love
a green smoothie as much as the next pretentious instagrammer, but
this fad is seriously lacking in larks) fashion week food went all
Eighties school trip packed lunch: Molly Goddard’s be-smocked models
knocked up white bread cheese and tomato sandwiches as we admired
their dresses, while at the Fashion East presentation, newcomer Jenna
Young’s “This Is the uniform” presentation had Maccy D’s fries and
corner shop sweets. But this isn’t just an up-and-comer on-a-budget
thing: at Versace’s champagne-fuelled Versus after party, waiters
proffered fried chicken burgers piled high. In Versus branded
wrappers, obviously. Victoria Moss


Versus chicken burgers were piled high at the after-party

Versus chicken burgers were piled high at the after-party

4. Attention: we have reached Peak Middle Class

Having tackled trucker favourite Little Chef last season with her
road-sign-themed collection, for spring Anya Hindmarch took it back to
the street, mining the branding back catalogue of classic British high
street behemoths: retro WH Smith logos were repeated all over a tote
bag, and a blue pair of knee high boots was emblazoned with the italic
script of pharmacy giant, Boots. Then came the stripes and slogans of
every Home Counties bargain hunter’s favourite department store, John
Lewis. A clutch bag declaring ‘never knowingly undersold’ confirms one
thing: fashion has reached peak middle class. VM 


John Lewis slogan bags at Anya Hindmarch

John Lewis slogan bags at Anya Hindmarch

Credit:
REX

5. A sartorial soliloquy 

To Burberry, or not to Burberry? That was the question for Benedict
Cumberbatch, pondering whether ’tis nobler to accept a front row
ticket to a fashion show on a rare morning off from playing the Dane,
or by opposing, end all chance of an aftershave campaign contract.
Luckily for us, the actor chose to endure the thousand natural shocks
that constitutes the Burberry pre-show red carpet and ended up centre
stage with his wife, Sophie Hunter, all the while holding her hand.
Meanwhile at Versus, our attention was held by FKA Twigs, herself
being held together by a smattering of safety pins on a black Versace
dress; while at Aspinal we were thrilled to bump into Anthea Turner
looking suitably retro in cargo pants. The best spot on the celebrity
rollercoaster, though? Ronan Keating, at Julian Macdonald. Who knew
the Boyzone man loved glitzy glamour so? Ellie Pithers  


Benedict Cumberbatch and his wife Sophie Hunter ponder the existential implications of the Burberry show

Benedict Cumberbatch and his wife Sophie Hunter ponder the existential implications of the Burberry show

Credit:
REX

6. The models really earning their crust

An aptitude for putting and sandwich-making don’t usually feature on
a model’s casting card, but this week it was those finishing school
details that made the difference. Molly Goddard’s models, sporting
beautiful neon tulle dresses, were tasked with creating hundreds of
sandwiches as guests observed them over the course of two hours,
filling slices of white bread with chopped tomatoes, lettuce and
cheese. Over at Orla Kiely, gamine girls had to showcase their
mini-golfing talents in micro-mini-skirts instead of the usual catwalk
strut. Meanwhile Faustine Steinmetz’s models resembled human statues
as they posed through strategic holes in the wall in not entirely
comfortable-looking contortions. Olivia Lidbury


What's your handicap? Models were required to putt at Orla Kiely

What’s your handicap? Models were required to putt at Orla Kiely

Credit:
REX

7. The old ones are the best

Extra-curricular activities aside – why do we get revved up about a
model comeback? Maybe because it’s nice to be reminded that beautiful
women don’t stop being beautiful – or being great models – after 30.
So, thanks to Giles Deacon for casting Karen Elson (36), Erin O’Connor
(37) and Eva Herzigova (42) in his show on Monday. They were topped by
the British model Cecilia Chancellor, now 49, appearing like a vision
at the Joe Richards presentation on Sunday. Chancellor met Richards
only a few days previously and, having tried on a few of his clothes,
agreed to open the show. “For her to take a chance on my debut? “I
still haven’t quite registered that,” said Richards. Kate Finnigan 


Cecilia Chancellor was a surprise model at Joe Richards

Cecilia Chancellor was a surprise appearance at Joe Richards

Credit:
ISIDORE MONTAG

8. Gloom is in for spring 

Guests who shot up to floor 36 for Christopher Kane’s show, held at
the Sky Garden in the City, London’s highest public garden, were met
with a less than glamorous view (bar the trays of champagne) on
Monday. Everything beyond the soaring glass dome was shrouded in rain
and fog – a classic pea souper. That didn’t detract from the drama –
the Shard looming, the Tower of London lingering, the Thames sulking –
and anyway, it was all part of the plan, according to Kane. “I didn’t
want sunshine,” said the sunny Scotsman, backstage after the show. PG
Wodehouse springs to mind: “It is never difficult to distinguish
between a Scotsman with a grievance and a ray of sunshine”. We’d add
to that – nor Kane’s signature acid brights. EP           


Christopher Kane SS16 show

Christopher Kane’s perfect pea-souper backdrop to his spring 2016 show at the Sky Garden

Credit:
ISIDORE MONTAG

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