Italia 90s – fashion’s new favourite decade – The Guardian

It used to be that there needed to be 30 years between a decade and its revival – see the 40s reworked in the 70s or the 50s through the prism of the 80s. No longer. It is 2017 and we are already deep into a 90s revival thanks to a Tumblr generation who have pored over the finer points of Destiny’s Child’s tour wardrobe and the haircuts on Friends. Milan saw the return of the 90s in all its pomp – less grunge, more glamour – with R&B on the soundtracks and bumbags in the front row. Here are five ways the catwalk fell hard for the decade.

Donatella Versace walks with Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen.

Donatella Versace walks with (L-R) Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen. Photograph: Maestri/WWD/REX/Shutterstock


This year marks the 20th anniversary of Gianni Versace’s death. His sister Donatella, who has headed up the company since then, paid tribute to her brother by calling in models who are known in fashion on first-name terms: Carla, Claudia, Naomi, Cindy and Helena. The five supers walked the finale with Donatella, soundtracked by George Michael’s Freedom. Fabulous and moving all at the same time.

A logo bag at the Fendi show.

A logo bag at the Fendi show. Photograph: Maestri/WWD/REX/Shutterstock


Fendi’s F branding was back on the catwalk this season, on shoppers and bomber jackets. It’s a familiar sight to anyone who grew up watching Carrie get to thinking about Fendi baguettes on Sex and the City. It also perhaps signals what is to come – these logos are a big part of Paris Hilton’s early-00s look. Be warned: “That’s hot” could soon be a catchphrase once again.

Dolce & Gabbana matching leggings ensemble.

Dolce & Gabbana matching leggings ensemble. Photograph: Estrop/Getty Images


Donatella Versace said that younger customers often ask her about the leggings the brand used to do in the 90s, hence their return to the catwalk this season. Dolce & Gabbana – another brand with 90s pedigree – also made them part of its collection. The printed leggings, worn with matching printed blouse, were quite Phoebe Buffay, series 1.

Marni going big for skater style.

Marni going big for skater style. Photograph: Pixelformu/SIPA/REX/Shutterstock


Francesco Risso, the new designer at Marni, said he was inspired by a doodle he did of a skateboarding flapper. While that might sound incongruous, the image helped him create some sharp outfits of XXL polo shirts worn with equally XXL cargo pants. They kind of looked like the outfit Casper wears in Kids to steal beer from the deli. Hey, whatever works.

Minimalism at Jil Sander.

Minimalism at Jil Sander. Photograph: Estrop/Getty Images


What with the “never enough” policy at Gucci, it’s easy to dismiss minimalism as over. But, actually, there are plenty of quiet clothes out there – they work like palate cleansers between outfits where 62 textures come as standard. Jil Sander was a giant of minimalism in the 90s and Luke and Lucie Meier, new creative directors at the brand, paid homage. Their first collection was all about minimalism with soul – a combination that they say was at the heart of Sander’s aesthetic.


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